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Google Tips and Tricks

1. Sky: Browse the universe at sky.google.com. Also available in Google Earth.

2. Search nearby: If you find a destination on the map—say, a hotel—in the info bubble, you can "search nearby" to find the businesses and attractions close by.

3. Use business name/category in directions search: Instead of looking up the address of a store and then having to get directions from one to the other, simply type "deli mountain view, ca TO ice cream mountain view ca," and the search results will provide you with a list of businesses to choose from and provide directions from point to point.

4. Public transit directions: Plan trips using public transportation at google.com/transit. For cities where transit is available, a search for directions will also provide the option for directions using public transit.

5. My Maps: Create your own maps by adding lines, markers, pictures, and videos to a Google Map. You can also collaborate on maps with friends (or the public), and make it publicly available or private.

6. Check gas prices: With mapplets like GasBuddy, you can see gas prices throughout your area. Go to maps.google.com, select "My Maps", and browse the directory for "Gas Prices by GasBuddy.com." There are plenty other useful and fun tools in the directory, such as AccuWeather.com Weather Snapshot, Area Calculator, and Real Estate Search.

7. Check traffic: In many cities across the country, Google provides real-time traffic information. For instance, type in "New York, NY" and click the "Traffic" button in the upper-right corner of the map to view traffic patterns, road closures, and construction sites. This feature is also available in Google Maps for Mobile.

8. Street view: View and navigate high-resolution, 360-degree street-level images of various U.S. cities. Just click the Street View button and drag the "person" icon onto a blue outlined street. Street View is also available for driving directions and in Google Earth.

9. Editing Google Maps: You can now add or edit business listing information to Google Maps.

10. Weather in Google Earth: Get weather forecasts, conditions, clouds, and radars in the "Weather" folder in the Google Earth layer menu.—

11. Weather: To see weather conditions and a four-day forecast for any U.S. location, type "weather" and a city or zip code. For example: "weather 94114" or "weather Kansas City KS."

12. Movies: Find movie info by typing "movies," or the name of a current film, into the Google search box along with your location (city and state or zip code). For example, "Sex and the City Atlanta GA" or "movies 02459."

13. Area codes: Enter an area code in the Google search box to see the location of a phone number.

14. Package tracking: Enter the tracking number of a package from FedEx, UPS, DHL, or USPS into the search box.

15. Flight status: Check the status of a U.S. flight by typing the name of the airline followed by the flight number. For example, to see the status for United Airlines flight 134, search for "United 134."

16. Measurement conversions: You can get height, weight, and cooking measurement conversions. For instance, type "2 liters to cups" to see how many cups are in two liters.

17. Currency conversions: Google's built-in currency converter. Simply enter the currency conversion into the search box. For example, "80 pounds to dollars."

18. Calculator: Supports basic and advanced operations. Just type an equation into the search box.

19. Definitions: Type "define" followed by a word in the Google search box to get the definition, like "define perspicacity." You can also do this via SMS.

20. Q&A: Ask a fact-based question or query ("population of Japan") by typing it into the Google search box. You'll see the answer at the top of your search results as well as a link to the source to find out more.




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An auction is the process of buying and selling goods by offering them up for bid, taking bids, and then selling the item to the winning bidder. In economic theory, an auction is a method for determining the value of a commodity that has an undetermined or variable price.

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Auctioning can be traced as far back as 500 B.C.[1] Auctions can be with reserve or minimum, or without minimums, or absolute or no reserve. In reserve auctions, there is a minimum bid or reserve price; if the bidding does not reach the minimum, there is no sale (but the person who puts the item up for auction may still owe a fee to the auctioneer or auction company). In absolute or no reserve auctions, the sale is guaranteed, with only the price left to be determined. In the context of auctions, a bid is an offered price.

History of the Auction

According to ancient Greek scribes, the more generally accepted auction occurred first in Babylon in 500 B.C. During this period, auctions were held annually, and women were sold on the condition of marriage. It was considered illegal to allow a daughter to be sold outside the auction method. Women with “beauty” engendered higher bidding, women without “beauty” had to pay a dowry to be accepted into the auction, and thus the price would be negative.

The Auction House . Com

During the Roman Empire, following military victory, Roman soldiers would often spear the ground to mark the location of spoils in which goods and property were seized. Roman business agents were said to have accompanied warriors into battle to help facilitate expected sales. The Romans also used the auction to liquidate their own property. For example, Marcus Aurelius is said to have auctioned off prized heirlooms and furniture, (an auction that, as legend has it, lasted over two months). The most legendary auction occurred in the year 193 A.D. when the entire Roman Empire was put on the auction block by the Praetorian Guard. On March 23rd, The Praetorian Guard first killed Pertinax the emperor, and then announced that the highest bidder could claim the entire Empire. Didius Julianus outbid everyone for the price of 6,250 drachmas per Guard, an act that initiated a brief civil war. Didius was then beheaded two months later when Septimus Severus conquered Rome.

During the end of the 18th century, soon after the French Revolution, auctions came to be held in taverns and coffeehouses to sell art. Such auctions were held daily, and catalogs were printed to announce available items. Such Auction catalogs are frequently printed and distributed before auctions of rare or collectible items. Many of these catalogs may be very elaborate works themselves, with considerable details about the items being auctioned.

During the American civil war, goods seized by armies were sold at auction by the Colonel of the division. Thus, some of today's auctioneers in the U.S. carry the unofficial title of "colonel". Auctioneers are usually trained in the legal and practical aspects of conducting auctions. Some jurisdictions require auctioneers to be licensed and bonded.

Major auction houses include Christie's, Sotheby's, Lyon & Turnbull, and Bonhams. The Dorotheum, the world's oldest auction house, was established in 1707 in Austria.

Internet auctions, such as eBay and GoIndustry, have become very popular with the prevalence of Internet. Other websites, such as AuctionZip and Auctioneers, display live auction listings from auctioneers nationwide.

Types of auctions

  • English auction: This is the type of auction commonly used by the English auction houses like Sotheby's, Christie's, and Phillips. Participants bid openly against one another, with each bid being higher than the previous bid. The auction ends when no participant is willing to bid further, or when a pre-determined "buy-out" price is reached, at which point the highest bidder pays the price. The seller may set a 'reserve' price and if the auction fails to have a bid equal to or higher than the reserve, the item remains unsold. A variant popular in the time of Samuel Pepys was 'auction by candle' in which the winning (highest) bid was the last one to be made before a small piece of lit candle died out.[2] Such auctions can be vulnerable to collusion, when two or more bidders act together to win the auction. Following the auction result, the "loser" threatens to sue the winner, who then proposes a settlement. The settlement is actually the pre-agreed reward for the loser's cooperation. This strategy was described by the economist Susan Athey.

Within this type of auction, there is several manners in which bidding can occur. First, is the absolute auction, which means that the item will be sold for the highest possible price, with no reserve. Second, is a reserve auction, which establishes a minimum bid or price for the item that will be accepted by the person who is selling the item. Third, you have Absentee bidding, which means that a bid is left with the auctioneer. Fourth, is internet bidding, where the bidding can be online and at the auction house at the same time. Fifth is Phone bids, which is nearly identical as absentee bidding, but an auction house employee does the bidding for the buyer. And last but not least is the sealed bidding process.

  • Dutch auction: In the traditional Dutch auction the auctioneer begins with a high asking price, which is lowered until some participant is willing to accept the auctioneer's price, or a predetermined minimum price is reached. That winning participant pays the last announced price. The Dutch auction is named for its best known example, the Dutch tulip auctions. ("Dutch auction" is also sometimes used to describe online auctions where several identical goods are sold simultaneously to an equal number of high bidders. Economists call the latter auction a multi-unit English ascending auction.)
  • Sealed-bid first-price auction: Also known as Sealed High-Bid Auction or First-Price Sealed-Bid Auction (FPSB). In this type of auction all bidders simultaneously submit bids so that no bidder knows the bid of any other participant. The highest bidder pays the price they submitted.
  • Sealed-bid second-price auction, also known as a Vickrey auction: This is identical to the sealed first-price auction, except the winning bidder pays the second highest bid rather than their own. This is very similar to the proxy bidding system used by eBay, where the winner pays the lesser of their actual bid and the second-highest bid plus one bidding increment.
  • All-pay auction: an auction in which all bidders must pay their bids regardless of whether they win the prize. The highest bidder wins the prize. The all-pay auction is often used to model lobbying (bids are political contributions), or other competitions.

All of the private value auctions listed above are revenue equivalent when under complete information scheme, meaning that they all result in the same expected revenue for a seller.

Terminology

  • Silent auction: This is often a variant of an English auction, where bids are written on a sheet of paper, and at the predetermined end of the auction, the highest listed bidder wins the prize. This auction variant is often used in charity events, and many items may be auctioned simultaneously. Participants submit bids normally on paper, near the item. Other variations of this type of auction may include sealed bids. The highest bidder pays the price he or she submitted.
  • Digital art auction: In this indefinitely long auction, designed for unreleased works that are trivially reproducible at zero cost (recordings, software, drug formulas), bidders openly submit their maximum bids (which may be adjusted or withdrawn at any time). The seller may review the bids and close with a price of their choosing at any time — the successful bidders that pay this price are those whose bid meets or exceeds it, and these are the only bidders who receive a copy of the item.
  • Open outcry auction: This type of auction can refer to any auction where the auction is conducted orally for people to hear. This type of auction also refers to what is used in stock exchanges and commodity exchanges, where trading occurs on a trading floor and traders may enter verbal bids and offers simultaneously. Transactions may take place simultaneously at different places in the trading pit or ring. This type of auction is being replaced by electronic trading platforms.
  • Unique bid auction: In this type of auction users post blind bids and are given a range of prices they can place a bid in, often a capped limit. The highest, or lowest, unique bid wins. For instance an auction is given a maximum bid of 10. If the top five bids are 10, 10, 9, 8, 8 then 9 would be the winner being the highest unique bid. This a popular online type of auction.
  • Buy-out auction: This auction has a predetermined buy-out price in which the bidder can end the auction by accepting the buy-out price. The buy-out price is set by the seller. The bidder can choose to bid or use the buy-out option. If no bidder chooses to utilize the buy-out option, the auction ends with the highest bidder winning the auction.
  • Combinatorial auction: A combinatorial auction is an auction in which bidders can place bids on combinations of items, or “packages,” rather than just individual items.
  • Absolute auction, also known as an Unreserved Auction, No-reserve Auction or Auction Without Reserve, is an auction with no minimum bid amount, no set starting bid, no seller confirmation of the high bid price, and no buybacks of the property being offered by the seller of any agents of the seller. The highest bidder will purchase the property no matter the high bid price. This type of auction is designed to attract the maximum participation from the buying public as the seller has committed to convey their property to the highest bidder without limitation. It does offer buyers excellent opportunities from time to time, however. A 2003 Virginia statute defines an absolute auction as "an auction where at the time of the auction sale the real or personal property to be sold will pass to the highest bidder regardless of the amount of the highest and last bid."

In terms of security/privacy, there are two main types of auctions:

  • In a private auction the identities of the bidders are hidden, so anyone that buys the item can remain anonymous. This is normally done for either security reasons such as rare gems or art, or to avoid embarrassment if the item is more risque.
  • In a public auction, the bidders' identities are not hidden and anyone is welcome to attend the auction.

In terms of auctioneers and auction items, we can differentiate three types of auctions:

  • exchange auction — also known as commodity auctions or exchange-commodity auctions, are the most closed to the new participants. The participants include a number of core professional buyers, who monitor each other to ensure that no one is 'cheating' on the community
  • sale auction — for art and one-of-a-kind items
  • dealer auction — for collectibles, cars or machinery

If more than one identical item is sold, there are two possible generalizations of the second-price auction. In a uniform-price auction, all of the winning bidders pay the price submitted by the highest non-winning bidder. Bidders will not typically bid their true value in a uniform-price auction with multiple units. In a Vickrey (or second-price sealed-bid) auction, the pricing rule is more complicated, but preserves the property that bidders will bid their true valuation. It is also possible to auction each identical item individually. Once each item has been priced, the winning bidder is entitled to buy the remaining goods at the same price. Items the winning bidder opts not to purchase are auctioned again. This system creates a tension between the desire to hold back on bidding since later items will almost certainly be cheaper, and the chance that by losing the first round of bidding all possibility of purchasing will be lost.

Work in the theory of auctions contributed to Vickrey's 1996 Bank of Sweden Prize.

  • Reverse auction: A type of auction in which the role of the buyer and seller are reversed, with the primary objective to drive purchase prices downward. In an ordinary auction (or also known as forward auction), buyers compete to obtain a good or service. In a reverse auction, sellers compete to obtain business.

Common uses for auctions

Auctions are publicly and privately seen in several contexts and almost anything can be sold at auction. Some typical auction arenas include the following:

  • the antique business, where besides being an opportunity for trade they also serve as social occasions and entertainment
  • in the sale of collectibles such as stamps, coins, classic cars, fine art, and luxury real estate
  • the wine auction business, where serious collectors can gain access to rare bottles and mature vintages, not typically available through retail channels
  • in the sale of all types of real property including residential and commercial real estate, farms, vacant lots and land
  • for the sale of consumer second-hand goods of all kinds, particularly house clearances and online auctions.
  • sale of industrial machinery, both surplus or through insolvency.
  • in commodities auctions, like the fish wholesale auctions
  • in thoroughbred horseracing, where yearling horses are commonly auctioned off; and
  • in legal contexts where forced auctions occur, as when one's farm or house is sold at auction on the courthouse steps.

Although less publicly visible, the most economically important auctions are the commodities auctions in which the bidders are businesses even up to corporation level. Examples of this type of auction include:

  • sales of businesses
  • spectrum auctions, in which companies purchase licenses to use portions of the electromagnetic spectrum for communications (e.g., mobile phone networks)
  • timber auctions, in which companies purchase licenses to log on government land
  • electricity auctions, in which large-scale generators and consumers of electricity bid on generating contracts
  • environmental auctions, in which companies bid for licenses to avoid being required to decrease their environmental impact
  • debt auctions, in which governments sell debt instruments, such as bonds, to investors. The auction is usually sealed and the uniform price paid by the investors is typically the best non-winning bid. In most cases, investors can also place so called non-competitive bids, which indicates an interest to purchase the debt instrument at the resulting price, whatever it may be
  • auto auctions, in which car dealers purchase used vehicles to retail to the public.

For some people, participating in an online auction seems intimidating -- too "high tech." But sites like Yahoo! Auctions and Ebay have made it easy for you to sell your discards from the comfort of your own living room. If you can use the INTERNET, you can sell your items online. Essentially, it's like placing a newspaper ad -- only on the internet. And instead of having to speak with dozens of people over the phone about your product (describing it and dickering over the price, again and again), it all takes place AUTOMATICALLY on the web with very little interaction from you.

The process is easy. You simply post a DESCRIPTION of your product, set a TIME-LIMIT for how long you would like people to bid on your item, and wait to see what happens. Of course, on occasion, you will receive a question or two from a potential bidder -- but these are easily handled with a quick email. Finally, when your bid expires, you receive payment from the buyer and SHIP out your product. When done correctly, it's as easy as pie! Of course, you can always run into snags -- but here are a few suggestions for creating a smooth transaction process.

WHAT'S IN A NAME?

The first thing that a potential bidder will see about your product is the TITLE. When searching for a specific item or scanning through a category (like "sports equipment" or "household goods"), your product will be listed on a main page as nothing more than a title and a hyperlink to your product description. Since your title is generally short and limited to one line, make it count! If an item is new, include the word "new" in the title -- and use the acronym NWT (new with tags) to indicate that an item has never been used. If it is a recognizable and respected BRAND-- like "Nike" or "Donna Karan" -- be sure to include that information. With clothing, indicate whether it is "mens," "womens," or "kids." And don't forget the size and color. While this isn't the appropriate place for a lengthy sales pitch, you want to catch a customer's attention on that first pass.

You will also want to make sure you choose an appropriate CATEGORY for your product. Try to place your items in a category where other similar items live -- you will benefit from the fact that shoppers will already be searching in that category for related products. If you are having a hard time deciding on a category, ask yourself, "Where would I LOOKfor this item if I were trying to buy one?

YOUR DESCRIPTION

Make sure that your description is as DETAILED as possible. In most instances, you won't have a space limit for describing your product -- and the general rule of thumb is the more information, the better. People don't want to have to contact you to see what size something is or if the attachments come with it or if it has any scuff marks. And you will save yourself time and effort by being THOROUGH up front -- you will receive fewer "clarification" emails from potential bidders. Remember, the goal in an online auction is not just to make money -- it's to make the process as automated as possible. The less you have to be involved after the auction starts, the better!

Another important factor in your success with online auctions is HONESTY. In today's climate, people are leery of incomplete descriptions because it feels as though the vendor may be trying to pull something over on them. Be honest upfront about the age of the item, its features, and any FLAWS or damage. Too many people throw the phrase "like new" around indiscriminately. You may be able to pawn a shabby product off on someone the first time -- but they will hurt you more in the long run by ruining your credibility and reputation as a vendor with negative feedback.

GET VISUAL

When you sell an item at a consignment store or yard sale, potential customers have the benefit of personal interaction with the object -- they can see it up close, touch it, and examine it thoroughly. However, on the internet, the only method that buyers have to evaluate a piece of merchandise is through your description and any PHOTOS you include. Be sure to take pictures from several different angles -- and include "close-ups" of any important features or small parts. If you are selling an item with "minor damage" in an area -- such as a scuff or a small stain -- take a close-up picture of the DAMAGE to show exactly how minor it is. And try to photograph your items on a neutral color background so the focus is on your product.

One of the biggest mistakes sellers make is leaving the photo out because it seems like too much work. Think about it -- if you are searching on Ebay for a food processor and find 25 of them but only 10 have pictures, which ones will you consider buying first? And many shoppers won't even bother looking at a product description unless it says "photo attached." So taking the few extra minutes to shoot a DIGITAL picture or SCANa standard photograph mean the difference between a sale and a waste of time.

PRICING OPTIONS

Many web auctions - Ebay in particular -- offer a couple of different options for pricing your product. You may choose to participate in the traditional AUCTION format -- where you set a starting price for your item, allow people to bid in discrete increments ($1, $5, $10, etc.), and ship the product to the highest bidder when the auction ends. However, if you have a product that is worth a considerable amount, you may want to include a RESERVE PRICE. This is a minimum amount that you are willing to accept for your merchandise -- and if the reserve is not met, you are not obligated to sell it. For example, you may have a starting bid price of $10 on a used set of Ping golf clubs, but choose to set a reserve price of $75. If the final bid is not at least $75, the bidder does not get the clubs.

Finally, you may want to offer bidders the option to simply BUY your product for a set price at the start of bidding. Let's use the golf club example again. In this instance, the bidder would have the option to go through the normal auction process and risk losing out to another buyer - or, could choose the "buy now" option and simply pay you a pre-set price (let's say $95) for the clubs. This makes life a lot easier for a bidder who knows what he or she wants and is willing to forgo a potential bargain to get it. And it allows you to get a fair price from a determined buyer.

PAYMENT

This is the one issue that intimidates potential sellers more than any other - how will you get paid for your sale? You can hear dozens of horror stories on the web about sellers who were cheated out of their payments by accepting rubber checks or fraudulent credit cards through services like PayPal. So what do you do? 

According to consumer advocate Clark Howard, the safest way to either buy or sell an item on an online auction service is through an ESCROW account. This is a third party company that will receive a cash payment from your buyer, hold it until your product has been safely delivered, and then pay you. However, you need to be on the lookout for the latest internet scam -- phony escrow services. The best route to take is to use one of the escrow companies RECOMMENDED by the online auction service. These companies have earned a solid reputation and should be completely above-board. But if you have any doubts, be sure to check them out with the Better Business Bureau first.

Fraud
Some ways to avoid becoming a victim of auction fraud:
Ask the seller for a phone number and call it.
Use an escrow service, which holds your payment until you inspect the item.
Check the seller's feedback carefully.
Scrutinize the users who have provided feedback on the seller and what they say they purchased.
Be wary of sellers who ask you to wire money overseas, especially to Eastern Europe, and of those who request that payment be mailed to post office boxes.
Use a credit card. It can be safer to pay this way because of the extra protection many credit card companies offer. Some online payment services also provide such coverage.
Be wary of a combination of suspicious elements, like several short simultaneous auctions of expensive items by one seller who does not list reserve prices; opening prices that seem irregularly low; offers to pay shipping; and little or no feedback.
Some classic online auction scams of which you should be wary.
SNIPINGis the practice of entering a final bid just before time runs out, so other bidders can't counter in time.
BID SHIELDING is a tag-team scam, with two bidders conspiring.
One bidder bids just higher than the current highest bid; his partner then bids way too high, discouraging consequent bidding. Then at the last possible moment, the high bidder withdraws so that his partner wins, for a lower price.
SHILLINGis a seller's scam--the seller puts an item up for bids, then bids for it using a different identity, driving up the price.

Hot auction tips

When listing an auction you simply select the most appropriate and obvious category for your item. But savvy sellers know that there can be more finesse involved when deciding upon a particular category.

Obviously you don't want to confuse bidders by listing your items in inappropriate categories. Certainly there are right and wrong categories. But, by choosing an alternate and less obvious category for your item you can open up your auction to a whole new audience. For example, booksellers sometimes will avoid listing in the mammoth book categories and instead list according to the book's subject matter--books on computers might be listed in the computers or software section, and so on.

You can snag someone interested in the subject, who just didn't know they needed a book!'' Just take a little time to consider other categories and who your target audience is and which category pages they're likely to browse. A little creativity and innovation can lead to more hits, more bids, and more profits. Remember that some categories are so large that your item might get lost in the shuffle. Try listing in a smaller yet still appropriate category. Also, if you're selling more than one item or similar items, conduct a little market research by listing items in different categories. Then sit back and see which category is the most successful.

When sellers relist their auctions, they usually make a few changes (lowering the price, altering the description or title, etc.) to try to turn around an unsuccessful auction. Another common tactic is switching categories. There are times when sellers, especially new sellers, might not be sure about which categories to choose for their items. In those cases, it's best to do a search for the same item or similar items and find out where other sellers have listed their items. If your search results show listings in more than one category, determine which category is soliciting the most bids for that particular item.
Before travelling any considerable distance to a local or community auction, you should obtain a catalogue of items to ensure the goods for sale are what you require. Certain auctions can be subject to cancellation at short notice and it is therefore a good idea to phone on the morning of the sale to confirm the sale is going ahead.
You should inspect the items thoroughly as most auction items are sold without guarantees, if items are described as faulty check that the faults can be easily repaired, sometimes you can test the goods before the auction starts, ask the auctioneer if this is possible.
Some motor vehicle auctionsgive you a period of time after the sale in which to return the vehicle if it is found to be faulty, again check this with the auctioneer prior to bidding.
Think about setting yourself a price limit on the goods you are interested in and "stick to it", how much would the item cost new with a guarantee? Remember a "buyers premium" may be added to the final bid price at some auctions and local taxes may also be added to the price ( check the "conditions of sale" in the catalogue or consult the auctioneer before bidding ) Catalogues are not set in stone and items listed can change. Listen out for any changes stated by the auctioneer in the description they give of the item at the start of bidding.
If you bid for the wrong lot, tell the auctioneer immediately, although you have a legal obligation once you have won the bidding the auctioneer may present the item for auction again, but this is purely at the auctioneers discretion and you may have to make up any difference if the final price is lower than your original successful bid.
Follow these auction safety tips: Pay by credit card when you can.
If you never receive the merchandise, you can contest the charges with your credit card issuer. Check on the seller's reputation. If you can't, consider it a red flag. Avoid impulse buys. Auctions don't always deliver the best price.
Do your research first to determine fair market value.
and CompareNet are good sources for this.
See also Comparison Shopping.
Determine who will pay for shipping and return policies.
If you bid at a person-to-person auction and win, you will probably be asked to send a personal check to a stranger. Look for sellers with a clean history.
Ebay offers a "Feedback Forum" where buyers and sellers can post comments about a seller, which form the seller's "feedback rating." The higher the number, the better chance you're dealing with an honest individual. But the system isn't foolproof - sleazy sellers sometimes give themselves false praise. Make sure you bid carefully, you most likely will not be able to withdraw. If a deal seems too good to be true, it probably is. Pass it by.
How to Sell Create an honest, but attractive description of your item.
Use pictures if possible.
Price your item to sell, but not lower than you are willing to sell for. If you are willing to spend a little extra, consider boldfacing your listing or paying for additional exposure on the auction site.
Respond to all inquiries about your item as soon as possible. Once the auction ends, get in contact with the bidder as soon as possible. Once payment or other terms of the agreement are met, fulfill your portion of the agreement by delivering the auctioned item.
If you are weary of buying items from a complete stranger, online auctions might not be for you.

Escrow companies facilitate a transaction between two parties by accepting payment from a buyer and holding onto it until the buyer receives the item and accepts it; only then is payment released to the seller.

A site called iescrow.comwill act as an intermediary between auction buyers and sellers for a small transaction fee. If you win, you pay iescrow first, the seller ships you the goods, you approve the sale, and iescrow pays the seller.
Dutch Auction Term used to describe an auction of two or more identical items that allows all buyers to purchase the items at the lowest successful bid.
Reserve Price Auction An auction where the seller sets a "reserve price" or the lowest price he or she is willing to sell an item for. This amount is generally higher than the minimum bid. In order to win the auction, a bidder must meet or exceed the reserve price and have the highest bid. If no bids meet the reserve price, the transaction will not take place.
Shilling When the seller of an item bids up their own item or asks another person to do so. This is a practice looked down upon in the auction community!
Sniping The practice of placing a bid in the closing minutes or seconds on an auction. Pretty sneaky practice, but there are ways to avoid getting burned by snipers. See eBay's description of Proxy Bidding.
Report Fraud The following sites keep an eye out for fraudulent vendors. If you've been burned, report your incident. If you don't want to get burned, visit these sites before partaking in the process. Internet Fraud Watch, US Consumer Gateway, Federal Trade Commission: E-Commerce and the Internet, Better Business Bureau.

 

Top Ten Auction User Tips
1.Before registering at any online auction site, be sure to read and understand the rules pertaining to both buyer and seller. Although you will be bidding, it is nice to know what rules the seller is expected to abide by.


2.Have a clear understanding of the various types of auctions and related terms. Example: Reserve auction, dutch auction, proxy bidding, sniping etc. and how you as a bidder can use this knowledge to your benefit. Find out, as an example how proxy bidding can keep you from getting caught up in the frenzy of bidding and not "overbid" on an item.


3.When searching a site for an item of interest, try for partial word or alternate word matches when using the search feature. Example: You are looking for a 1939 RCA "La Siesta" Radio.. the first thing to try would be the exact name as written or you could try key words such as "antique radio" "antique electronics" "old radio" "rca" "radio" and try some misspellings as in the case of a famous quarterback with the last name of Favre, it is mistakenly spelled as Farve (as one example).


4.Know what the item you are bidding on is worth in various conditions. Be an informed buyer, do not just bid blindly. Bidding on a "mint" item as opposed to an "as is" item can be the difference between a great auction experience and one that leaves an empty feeling in your wallet. Know the value!


5.Get a feel for the seller by checking the feedback ratings. If a seller has a high number of positive feedback ratings, you are probably dealing with a person of high caliber and there should not be any concern. However, every seller has to start somewhere and in this case, zero feedback. This would be a great time to exchange email with the seller to help form an opinion. You should not rule out bidding on a new seller's auction, but it may be a time to exercise caution. Always remember to leave feedback when you have completed a transaction.


6.Do not be afraid to ask the seller questions about the item he or she has placed for bidding. Just the conversation between you and seller can sometimes speak volumes about the seller and the item in question. You will know what the description says, but ask questions about what is not said. For instance, the description says "very good" condition, but you may want to ask (depending on the item) if the item has all original parts, or are there any hairline cracks, discoloration etc. Very good condition to the seller may not be the same way you would describe it.


7.You must factor in the shipping costs when bidding on an item. An item with a value of $20.00 that you win for $10.00 will suddenly lose it's luster if you have to pay $12.00 shipping and handling. See if you will be charged for the exact amount to ship the item or if there is a vague "plus shipping and handling" clause. If you are going to be charged the exact amount, find out approximately how much the item weighs. You can then get a very close idea by visiting one of several online postage calculators. (UPS, USPS, FEDEX etc.) If you are going to be charged "and handling"..find out what that means up front before bidding. Be very clear on this and keep in mind any insurance costs if required.


8.Know what kind of payment will be accepted at the auction's end. Check, money order, credit card? Is there a secure server for credit card transactions? If it is an International shipment, find how the payment will be handled.


9.Try to find your items early in the auction. Depending on the auction, you may or may not want to place an early bid. In the case of auctions that allow "sniping", it would be in every bidder's interest to wait until the very end to bid. By bidding early, you are just driving the price up, when the auction is going to (for the most part) be won in the final couple minutes. The moral of the story.. if it is a "sniping" auction,SNIPE!


10.In conclusion, know the rules, know what you are doing, know the item, know the item's true value, have fun and be cautious, but not afraid. Don't shy away from communicating with the seller and overall, be a wise and informed bidder.

Auction Tips provided by Auction Guide - AuctionGuide.com


Ladies and Gentlemen, The Auctions On !!

By Rilla Simmons

You, the collector. You've reconnoitered countless antique stores. You've become an old pro at garage sales. You've tested your mettle at flea markets, large and small. You've even earned your campaign stripes at various and sundry antique shows. And, yes, odds are that sooner or later, you will attend at least one auction during the time you spend on the collectible trail, whether you are a new recruit or a seasoned veteran. Auctions are an excellent marketplace for "shopping". Buyers actually determine the final price and value of the items purchased.

Auctions are a unique marketing experience for both buyer and seller. In no other type of selling situation can actual fair market value on a given day be realized. Everyone attending the auction has an equal opportunity make a purchase precluded only by one's own interest, budget and available finances. They are playing and increasingly important role in today's economy. Though the auctioneer acts as an agent for the seller, he must also have the interests of the buyer well in mind, because you, the collector, are his potential next client.

What exactly is an AUCTION? It is simply another form of bringing buyers and sellers together. The term "auction" as it is used today is derived from two Latin stems, " auction" meaning to sell property to the highest bidder and "augeo" meaning to increase. For dedicated auction goers, auctions can "increase" fun, excitement and the opportunity to find overlooked treasures. Not only is the word an ancient one, so is the practice. By some account, it dates back to 500 BC.

Why do they call the auctioneer COLONEL? Among earliest civilizations, when property or chattel was seized during wartime, the plunder was dispersed by the auction method. After the American Civil War, officers of high rank from both sides were the ones traditionally asked to sell all types of real estate and personal goods. Thus it became the custom to call an auctioneer by the honorary title of "Colonel".

What is the auction CHANT? This is the rapid-fire bid calling done by the auctioneer. It is merely a series of numbers connected by "filler" words that allow the buyers time to think between bids. Rhythm is as important as speed in developing an effective chant, but nothing is more vital than clarity. Auctioneers will adjust their speed, depending on the bidding experience level of their crowd and the numbers in a good chant will be readily understood. Novice auction goers should concentrate on the numbers not the fancy fillers.

Auctions come in all categories, all sizes and types. They can be casual country ones or very regimented events at major auction houses. They range from household liquidations to large estate settlements. They can be general in nature, or extremely specialized. Even at the same auction, the merchandise can range from trash to treasure. Each auction has its own ambience factored by that day's merchandise, the locale, the crowd, and the weather and, of course, the personality and style of the auctioneer. The camaraderie and competition make buying at auction a truly unique shopping experience.

Buying at auction is not like shopping at an antique show where it's the early bird who gets a head start in the door. Even being first in line, one still remains handicapped by not being able to be first at each and every booth. Nor is it like shopping the antique shops where time and distance keep one from making the rounds frequently enough to catch all the incoming treasures. Others may have an "inside" with a dealer who will give advance notice to specific customers as something they desire becomes available. Also at shows and shops alike, the collectibles often have gone through many hands and come complete with middleman charges. Also dealers and shop owners establish their asking price on the basis of their costs and their personal ideas of what a given piece is worth. At an auction, you, the collector, determine the selling price against what others are willing to pay.

However, one noticeable disadvantage of buying at auction is that it does not allow the buyer much long-term deliberation, pondering, dickering, nor the use of a layaway plan. Furthermore, seldom do auction companies utilize credit cards for payment. Usually it's strictly cash and carry. Other standard terms and conditions of an auction are that items are sold "as-is" and "where-is" without any warranties expressed or implied. This simply means no guarantees are given and a there is a "no refunds or returns" policy.

For atmosphere, on-location auctions are the most diverse and colorful, filled with a multitude of surprises…the weather being one of them. Here items are transferred directly from the household--attic and basement, barns and sheds to the adjacent site. Auctioneers try to get as comprehensive a list as possible, but due to the nature of these types of auctions, that often is simply not possible. Country or estate auctions of this nature will often provide the collector lots of bonuses and unexpected treasures for they tend to have a wide variety of items from several generations and lots of miscellaneous too numerous to mention. These can include a host of undiscovered treasures that only the individual collector will recognize as valuable or desirable.

Today's auctioneers are definitely more enlightened as to the sure-fire magnetism of the words "antiques and collectibles" and most make every attempt to provide details of all those items that previously were lumped together under the category " items too numerous to mention". Also we see fewer auction bills that generalize everything by using such ambiguous terms as " lots of primitives, antiques, old tins, crocks and jugs". Hint: The term "antique" is most often used generically, not specifically, unless the auctioneer is extremely well schooled in the field. Sellers tend to romanticize their family heirlooms with the term, but the collector should understand that according to Webster's, an antique can be not only a relic or object of ancient times, but also anything that is of an earlier period than present. While according to U.S. Custom law, an antique must be at least 100 years old. So just belonging to your great grandmother, who could have been born in 1920, just as easi ly as 1880 does not constitute "antique" status.

By the same token, Victorian can mean anything from 1837-1901, or even 1910. Primitive can be a pioneering artifact or something handmade in 1940. Since everything under heaven is collectible to someone, this is a very BROAD term. It is to the auctioneer's benefit to let the buying public know "up-front" some of the better items that will be offered for sale and to furnish as descriptive and accurate list as space allows. This is especially important since the local papers carry 15 to 30 auctions (or more) every weekend. Collectors have limited time and energy to devote to auction hopping, and need to know which auctions will feature the collectibles that they are searching for.

So, before traveling long distances or making your final decision between individual auctions that list equally wonderful and interesting pieces, call ahead. Try and get some input as to condition and actual descriptions, for due to limited advertising space, auctioneers must be as brief as possible in their newspaper ads. Call for any brochures and further information that may be available to you.

Try to find out the usual order of sale that a particular auctioneer follows. Does he sell the miscellaneous first or last? Does he hold all the choice pieces till last? Does he sell a mixture of antiques and collectibles throughout the sale, or does he group them near the middle. Repeat, auctioneers usually have a pattern, but usually is the key word. Remember time and circumstances sometimes alter this drastically on actual auction day.

The novice auction goer should try and attend a few auctions of any given auctioneer before leaping into a major purchase. This allows you to be aware of their advertising accuracy and listing style as well as their knowledge of what they sell. It will also give you a better idea of how their auction is conducted, whether they sell at a comfortable pace or drag it out all day. Become familiar with their selling style and chant or, at the very least, take someone with you who has already had their "trial by fire" and can lead you through the paces a time or two. This will increase both your confidence and your success. You might also consider telling the auctioneer that you are a newcomer. He and members of his staff will be glad to answer any questions before the auction begins and will be considerate of your inexperience during bidding.

If you're buying (or selling) at auction, check around. Research the auctioneer as to experience, expertise, references and reputation. Auctioneers must be licensed in the State of Missouri. However a license doesn't indicate or guarantee professionalism. Nor, at the present time, does the state require an auctioneer to have any formal academic training in the field or serve a period of apprenticeship. Seek out auctioneers who are members of their state professional organization and also members of the National Auctioneers Association, which is by recommendation only. As a member of these organizations, the auctioneer pledges ethical responsibility to his clients, his profession and the public. Membership also indicates willingness on his part to protect the public against fraud, misrepresentation or unethical practices and to maintain the highest standards of his profession.

Do your homework about both the auctioneer and the items that are being offered for sale. Find an auctioneer in whom you have confidence, who knows the antiques and collectibles he will sell and can be counted upon to represent them accurately. No auctioneer can know everything but they all can and should be expected to do some research. But remember, it is your responsibility to examine any piece carefully before you bid.

The fast pace of an auction prevents major discussion before each piece is sold. Still the caring auctioneer will try to call cracks and chips if they are noticeably apparent. If the merchandise is roped off or encased, don't be hesitant to ask to examine each and every piece that interests you during scheduled preview times, or before the auction begins. It is your responsibility to check these items against your own criteria of fair, good, excellent, minor damage, etc..... use your judgment, not the auctioneer's. What may be described as a hairline crack may seem like a ravine to you. A chip in a piece of glass may be termed a "fleabite", and to you, that particular flea had a Guinness record appetite. Only you, the collector, can know what's acceptable as to condition and flaws, rarity and uniqueness. Be informed. Know as much as possible about what distinguishes a remarkable piece from one that is strictly run of the mill, whether it is a baseball card or basket, a piece of graniteware or goofus glass.

Do your homework. Get a ballpark figure of the going price for similar items in antique shops in your area, as well as what the price guides quote. This helps eliminate getting carried away by the emotion of the moment. Sure the seller and the auctioneer want to get as many dollars as possible for the merchandise, but the auctioneer also wants the collector/buyer to be comfortable with what he has paid for any item. He wants your repeat business. Customer satisfaction works both ways. He knows that if you pay unrealistic prices for items at his auction, you will be fearful of returning another day. Human nature will cause the buyer to blame the auctioneer, not impulsive bidding. You will remember the auctioneer, not the seller. Professional auctioneers are in the business for the long haul, not for one-time shots. You are always in line to be his next client, either as a seller or a buyer.

Be prepared. Make notes on your bid card as to what you want and what you want to pay. Use your bid card TO BID, that's what its for. Keep it visible to the auctioneer and his staff. This speeds up the auction and will insure that he knows you are bidding. Winks, blinks, nods, twitches, pokes and gestures, etc. may be fun or add a little intrigue to the bidding, but in actuality, all they do is generally LOOSE you the item you thought you were bidding on.

If the auctioneer has to stop and ask you to show your number each time, it will add hours to the length of the day. Also, it is very possible for you to give the wrong number verbally, especially if you've registered at one or more auctions on that day or in the recent past. The auction staff cannot be expected to remember your number from hundreds of others. Remember the crowded conditions and fast pace of auctions are not conducive to these games. Establish eye contact with the ring man or auctioneer. Once he knows you're interested in bidding, he will keep returning to you. Don't hesitate to call out or raise your hand to catch their attention. They don't want to miss your bid any more than you don't want to be missed.

Mystery bidders are hard on every one and lead to problems. If you don't want anyone to know you are bidding, don't show up. Everyone is going to know you bought it when the ring man hands it to you anyway. Even though every one wants a bargain, don't be afraid to be the first bidder. The auctioneer appreciates any bid, even though it is well below what he is asking for. Rest assured that the first bidder rarely is the only bidder. The faster you bid, the quicker the auction will go and if everyone shillyshalleys about bidding, a routine four hour auction could take all day.

Pay attention to the numbers that the auctioneer or staff calls out after completion of the bidding. It will be repeated as "sold for twelve dollars to number six". If the auctioneer or ring man fails to do this, just speak up. If there is a question about the selling price or a given bid number, immediately correct it. During the bidding, if you are unsure as to what the bid amount is or if you have the bid, ask the ring man. Don't ask the recording clerk what something sold for, or if you bought something for a certain price. Interrupting him (or her) will cause errors. The job of recording clerk is an extremely vital one and demands accuracy and concentration. Most clerks are instructed by their bosses not to converse with anyone while bidding is in progress. Their attention should be totally focused on the auctioneer and the bidding.

Get to the auction early so that you have ample time to inspect everything that interests you. Where the auction has a preview time, utilize it well. An auction survival kit for the collector should include a tape measure, a magnet, a magnifying glass, a flashlight, a notepad, some reference notes, and a general reference price guide as well as a pen or pencil. Also you should bring some boxes and wrapping material. If the auction is going to have seating, bring something to mark your seat. DON'T EVER USE YOUR BID NUMBER. Also, it's a wise idea to bring a seat cushion.

Other things to remember to include in your auction survival kit are plenty of time, patience and a sense of humor. Be a good sport. When you arrive at the auction, you will need to register at the cashier's office. At this time, you will generally be required to provide proper photo identification, usually by showing your driver's license. Please understand this is for your protection as well as that of the seller. All this information remains strictly confidential.

In order to assign bid numbers and insure proper collection of funds from the buyers at an auction, every effort must be made to make sure that you are who you say you are. Even if you have attended other auctions conducted by the company and are on a first name basis with the auctioneer, you will still be required to show proper photo identification. Just think of how would you feel to be called upon to pay for something at an auction you did not even attend??

There are certain local and state regulations as to what information must be obtained for payment by anything other than cash. Retail businesses require this information and an Auction Company is no different. Don't expect the cashiers to treat the identification and registration process un-professionally.

Hundreds and hundreds of faces and names pass before the cashier's window in a space of just a few months. That fact combined with personnel changes makes it nigh impossible for them to accurately remember everyone. Be gracious and cooperative. So whether you pay by cash or check, or credit card, you still need proper identification in order to become a registered bidder. This registration process becomes a binding contract between you and the auction company (i.e. seller). Be sure and read the terms and conditions listed in the advertising as well as the Auction Company's posted information, so that you are prepared on auction day to comply with their policies. Remember all sales are final and all merchandise must be paid for on the day of sale. Take good care of your bid number. Anything charged to it is your responsibility.

Some auction companies will also require that all checks have their approval prior to the start of the auction and others may also require a letter of guarantee from your bank. They also have the right of refusal to register a bidder who has questionable ID, or has a known history of causing problems, either in collection of funds or failure to comply with auction policy. Even if the auction company's general policy is to accept checks with proper ID, if the cashiers feel the check or financial institution it is drawn upon is questionable, they can require another method of payment. Remember that knowingly writing a bad check constitutes a felony and may be deemed theft as well. So don't even think of trying it.

Before leaving the auction, be sure and check with the cashier's office. It's not a bad idea to turn in your bid number whether you have bought anything or not. That way the staff will immediately be aware if someone else uses your number. It is becoming a common policy to have buyers sign out as well when they pay for their merchandise. Intentionally leaving an auction without a paid receipt for merchandise is the same as shoplifting and will be treated as such. It's much simpler to be sure that you have paid for everything before you go. If you accumulate alot of things and want to take them to your vehicle for safekeeping, notify the cashier of your intentions. It will save alot of misunderstandings and confusion.

Do dress accordingly to the weather for outdoor auctions. Be sure you have on warm clothing and footwear and gloves for frigid days, a hat or umbrella for protection against sun (don't forget the sunscreen either) and for rainy days, waterproof cover-ups. Check the auction listing for the inclusion of "rain or shine". While most auctions routinely have food vendors, you may want to bring a bag of goodies to tide you through a long session. Also, if the weather is extremely hot, you may want to bring a jug of water to combat dehydration.

Don't assume that there will be restroom facilities just because it is held at a home. Check the advertising or call the auctioneer if this is an important issue for you. Don't expect the householder to allow you the use of their personal facilities because of many reasons, not the least being that such systems were not designed to cope with overuse. More and more auctioneers are providing comfort stations.

Even for indoor auctions, that are "climate-controlled", you should be aware that it may be too cool for your comfort ( be it summer or winter), and you should have a jacket with you.

The layout and procedures found at a typical midwestern public auction are unique in many respects, due to many varied factors. Not the least is the usual open-air environment, without doors and walls, shop clerks, counters and display racks. However, courtesy and decorum from the crowd are still essential elements.

Don't ever scratch painted furniture on exposed edges. Instead take out drawers, look on the bottoms, and check the back to determine the type of wood. You wouldn't or couldn't do this in an antique shop. Remember the favorite saying of moms everywhere, "Look with your eyes, not your hands?" Well, it applies at auctions, too. Respect the property of the seller and any others who might eventually purchase it. Don't damage the furniture even a little bit, even if it looks battered already. It's not yours!!!!

Don't move pieces around from their prearranged sale order. Respect the other buyers. Don't mix and match the contents of boxes of miscellaneous to suit yourself. It is considered tampering and even with a good explanation could be misconstrued as attempted shoplifting if you are caught. More and more auctioneers are employing plain-clothes security people to forestall just that. As to the inevitable question, "why not", just think how upset you'd be if you were the successful bidder on a box of miscellaneous in which you'd spotted a hidden treasure, only to find that someone had shifted it to another box and all you are left with is a box of miscellaneous of dubious interest or worth.

Don't be a disgruntled loser. Bid till you no longer want to pay the price the going price, then bow out gracefully. Also, remember that when the hammer (gavel) falls and the bid goes to you, it becomes a binding contract, whether you have second thoughts or not, you are now the owner of the item and are required to make payment for it before leaving the auction.

Don't be dismayed if you discover area antique dealers or pickers at the auction. Just remember that they are buying for resale and have certain limits as to what they can pay. A knowledgeable collector has a certain advantage over them. Even if they have a seemingly ready market for the items they want, they still have to spend within a budget, just as you do. They have to watch their inventory and cash flow as well. They are speculating and you, the collector, know what you want and what you are prepared to pay to add a particular piece to your collection.

Do understand that it is perfectly legitimate for an item to be "bought in" by the auctioneer if the lot does not meet its reserve or is not bid on at all, unless an auction is listed as an absolute auction, in which everything is to sell to the highest bidder regardless of what it brings. However as a rule, most auctioneers require that the seller be prepared to sell his merchandise that day and that any reserves be noted either in the advance advertising or on the day of sale, but it is not mandated to be that way.

If you are traveling long distances or have any questions, you should call in advance. Also, though most auctioneers stipulate that all advertised items must be present on the day of the auction, sometimes due to circumstances beyond their control, this is impossible. Please be understanding, even though it is inconvenient for the potential buyer, it is even more embarrassing to the auctioneer. If the availability of an item will be a determining factor in attending an auction, it is always wise to check ahead.

Do remember is that once an item is sold, it is the responsibility of the buyer to keep track of his merchandise, and you are required to pay for it even if it gets up and walks away. Don't be careless with your purchases. Auction personnel appreciate buyers who keep notes as to what items they have purchased. Most seasoned auction veterans will write the item and price they paid on their bid card, or note it on the auction catalog, if there is one.

ALSO, check your tickets (even if you have a veritable mountain of them), BEFORE leaving the cashier's window. A few moments spent can prevent a great deal of frustration in the long run, for everyone concerned. Cashiers try to do their job as fast and as efficiently as possible. They don't want to keep you waiting anymore that you want to wait. Don't expect that once you have successfully bid on all the items you came for, that you can then immediately go to the cashier, pay and leave the minute your last item is purchased.

At most auctions, the cashier must still wait for a runner to bring the clerk sheets with your item on it to be filed. There are 12 items to a sheet, and if your item was early on that sheet, you could have as much as 12-15 minutes to wait after your item sold. Here's where that patience you brought with you in your auction survival kit comes into play!! You must have that "little ticket" for each item you bought. It is your paid receipt.

Check-out time is usually a hectic time for both the cashiering staff and the auction-goer, especially when everyone is ready to leave the auction at the same time. While every effort is made to reduce errors, even the best-designed system is subject to an occasional human mistake. Recording and filing systems are not goof-proof. Sometimes bidding tickets are misfiled and may be included under another's number. Also, sometimes those fingers punching in totals on a calculator seem to have minds of their own and numbers get transposed. While the cashier tries to double-check every item against the tape, mistakes can be overlooked.

Getting things straight before you leave is the best policy. That's why you are given those little tickets with your bid number, the lot description and price. These usually constitute your only paid receipt. It is a very sound practice for all successful bidders to write down a brief description of the items they have bought and the prices they sold for. This is much appreciated by the cashiers at check out time, and can eliminate many potential misunderstandings, simple calculation errors as well as missed or "extra" tickets. This also keeps you from leaving any of your items behind because you simply forgot you bought them.

What is a Reserve Price Auction?
A. A Reserve Price Auction is an auction where the seller has set a minimum price for which he/she is willing to sell an item.
The lowest price a seller is willing to accept for an item is called the "reserve price." Bidders know there's a reserve price, but not what it is.
In order to be the winning bidder, a bidder must meet or exceed the reserve price and have the highest bid.
If no bidders meet the reserve price, neither the seller nor the high bidder are under any further obligation to complete the transaction.
You cannot use reserve prices for Dutch Auctions.
Q. What is a Private Auction?
A. Strictly hush, hush,this auction protects a buyer's privacy.
Bidders' e-mail addresses won't show up on the item or bidding history screens.
When the auction is over, only the seller and the high bidder will know who bought the item.
Q. What is a Dutch Auction?
A. This auction format is perfect for sellers with many identical items to sell!
Sellers start by listing a minimum price, or starting bid for one item, and the number of items for sale. Bidders specify both a bid price and the quantity they want to buy.
All winning bidders pay the same price per item,which is the lowest successful bid.
This might be less than what you bid!
If there are more buyers than items, the earliest successful bids get the goods.
Higher bidders are more likely to get the quantities they've asked for.
Proxy bidding is not used in Dutch Auctions. Bidders can refuse partial quantities.
For example, if you place a bid for 10 items and only 8 are available after the auction, you don't have to buy any of them.
Here are some examples of how Dutch Auctions work:
A seller has 10 pens for auction at $1 each. ten people bid $1 for one pen each.
In this case, all 10 bidders will win a pen for $1.
OR Let's say that five people bid $1.25 for one pen each and 10 others bid $1.
The minimum bid for the pen will be raised to $1.25 because demand exceeds supply.
Because the $1.25 bidders bid higher than the $1 bidders, they will be guaranteed a pen.
The other five pens will go to the earliest $1 bidders.
The final price for each pen will be $1 (even though someone placed a high bid of $1.25) since all winning bidders pay the same price , which is the lowest successful bid.
It might sound complicated, but the majority of Dutch Auctions are simple:
Most users win the items they bid on at the minimum asking price.
However, there are some special instances you might want to know about:
If you are the lowest bidder in a Dutch Auction and you specify a multiple quantity, you may not get to purchase all that you specify.
Why? Because there may be little left over after the high bidders get their share.
In other words, if the lowest bidder requests a quantity of three pens, they may only get one since the first nine pens have already been allotted to the higher bidders.
The only way to avoid this problem is to make sure you are not the lowest bidder!
Q. What's Proxy Bidding?
A. OK, so let's say you find something that you really want.... You're willing to pay $25.00 for it, but the current bid price is only $2.25.
You could take the long route and sit at your computer, outbidding each new bid until you reach $25.00. (Like you have nothing better to do...!)
Luckily, there's a better way: Let the system be your proxy and do your bidding for you.
You can use a proxy in any type of auction except a Dutch Auction.
Here's how it works:
1. The seller lists an item for auction, determines the length of the auction, and opens for bidding.
2. You decide how much you're willing to pay, enter your first bid and give your proxy (the system) a confidential maximum bid.
3. You note the ending time of the auction and log off.
4. Your proxy (the system) engages in a fierce bidding war with other proxy bidders, and a few live ones,while you go about your business.
5. At the end of the auction, you check back in to see how your proxy did. If other bidders outbid your predetermined maximum, you don't get your item. But otherwise, you're the winner,and the final price might even be less than the maximum you had been willing to spend!
Q. What is a Standard Auction?
A. In the Standard Auction the seller does not set a hidden reserve price; instead a starting price is set.
That starting price is the price at which the seller is willing to sell.
You are notified by e-mail if your bid is the high bid and when another person makes a higher bid than you.
The highest bidder at the close of the auction is notified by e-mail.






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